Check to see if it's the actual switch or if a wire broke off from inside the switch terminals or pots etc. Sometimes they look soldered or in tack, but they broke off right at the terminal and are just loose. Slightly tug on them to test their integrity of the connection. If those are good, try cleaning the switch with something like Caig brand DEoxit.
Unless you're ready to start do some \"Luthier 101\" on your guitar, based on your last question I'd recommend taking it to your local music shop and having them take a look at it.
Otherwise, yes, you need to remove the entire scratch plate which usually involves string removal (unless you have some sort of locking bridge/nut system that will allow you to just loosen the strings eough to remove the scratch plate). You probably won't need to remove the grounding wire, or the wires that connect to the cable jack though. G3456's advice is on the money.
It's not that hard really. I change out the scratch plate on my '96 Ultra 50th Anniversary all the time. Might be a good learning experience.
And I might add, when you lift the guard off do it slowly if this is your first time. Pay attention to how the wires are nestled in there (for when you reattach) Not like there will be 2 ft of wire for you to lay it over there--->!
Observe the connection as guitar3456 said.. Maybe take another wire (with alligator clips?) and hold it to where the wires come from and where the are at the switch... Even better use a VOM if you are familar with them...
Like Jammer said.. really nothing to removing the guard.. and atleast you will get a visuall as to what's happening under there! Look online for your model of strat an find a schematic, or buy a book with with them in it...
If you don't really feel comfortable doing it though... As mentioned .. take it to a shop!
This is one of the easiest guitars to work on. Give it a look see. You may spot the problem, and I also encourage you to make whatever repairs you can yourself. Continue to ask questions, and give as much info you can for a better response. There are plenty of videos on the net which explain step by step, most of the common repairs.
If you have a sealed switch, you won't be able to get at the contacts with the spray cleaner.
Be careful not to overspray onto the guitar finish, and note that some cleaners will even eat the plastic pickguard.
The switch cost about $12. I would try to clean it first, but if it becomes a frequent problem, just replace the switch.
Some of these Fenders use cheap parts, as with any brand of guitar these days. It's not uncommon to \"upgrade\" electrical parts.
At least with the Fender Strat...you can easily get at all the electrical parts with removing the pickguard.
There are some tips to doing electrical repairs. One tip to start with is...diagram your parts, label what wire goes where, before you begin to disassemble. Some replacement parts will be different as well. Make sure you understand the part you are working on. In your case, the switch comes in 3 and 5 pole, as well as closed and open.
When it comes to switches and pots, if they become an intermittent problem, don't keep nursing them. Replace them with the best quality part you can, and be done with it.
My take on \"cleaning\" a switch. You are only prolonging the problem, if you know this part is old, and/or well used. If the problem is oxidation, a good cleaner will fix this temporarily. Oxidation will return, and faster once the protective coating of the part is worn away. You have to evaluate the part condition, age, and why it is acting up. If you expect to use this guitar for performance, just replace the switch. You don't want Murphy's Law to rule.
Comments
in the center of the guitar and i have to take out all the strings to open it ?
Otherwise, yes, you need to remove the entire scratch plate which usually involves string removal (unless you have some sort of locking bridge/nut system that will allow you to just loosen the strings eough to remove the scratch plate). You probably won't need to remove the grounding wire, or the wires that connect to the cable jack though. G3456's advice is on the money.
It's not that hard really. I change out the scratch plate on my '96 Ultra 50th Anniversary all the time. Might be a good learning experience.
Observe the connection as guitar3456 said.. Maybe take another wire (with alligator clips?) and hold it to where the wires come from and where the are at the switch... Even better use a VOM if you are familar with them...
Like Jammer said.. really nothing to removing the guard.. and atleast you will get a visuall as to what's happening under there! Look online for your model of strat an find a schematic, or buy a book with with them in it...
If you don't really feel comfortable doing it though... As mentioned .. take it to a shop!
If you have a sealed switch, you won't be able to get at the contacts with the spray cleaner.
Be careful not to overspray onto the guitar finish, and note that some cleaners will even eat the plastic pickguard.
The switch cost about $12. I would try to clean it first, but if it becomes a frequent problem, just replace the switch.
Some of these Fenders use cheap parts, as with any brand of guitar these days. It's not uncommon to \"upgrade\" electrical parts.
At least with the Fender Strat...you can easily get at all the electrical parts with removing the pickguard.
There are some tips to doing electrical repairs. One tip to start with is...diagram your parts, label what wire goes where, before you begin to disassemble. Some replacement parts will be different as well. Make sure you understand the part you are working on. In your case, the switch comes in 3 and 5 pole, as well as closed and open.
When it comes to switches and pots, if they become an intermittent problem, don't keep nursing them. Replace them with the best quality part you can, and be done with it.
My take on \"cleaning\" a switch. You are only prolonging the problem, if you know this part is old, and/or well used. If the problem is oxidation, a good cleaner will fix this temporarily. Oxidation will return, and faster once the protective coating of the part is worn away. You have to evaluate the part condition, age, and why it is acting up. If you expect to use this guitar for performance, just replace the switch. You don't want Murphy's Law to rule.