powder coating......

phatsack · May 2009

I'm in the process of making myself a 2x12 cab to go with my Fender Champ 25se head. So far I've got dimensions down (29\"x18\"x11.5\"), wood (3/4\" baltic Birch) and drivers (I'm thinking Mod Tone Jensons, they're ideal for modeling amps). But tolex seems like a bit of a pain, and it kind of defeats the purpose of my DIY project - price, that stuff aint cheap.

So now I need to figure out how to protect my cab and make it look good.
My step dad offered to bring it to work and give it a powder coat, I'm just not sure how that will affect the tone. Anybody have any experience with this method? Or does anybody have any other ideas?

EDIT: Also, my amp is rated at 8ohms. Typically you can go up in ohms without hurting the amp, but that's for solid state amps - what about tube amps? Is it safe to use a 16ohm load with my 8ohm tube amp, or am I asking for trouble?

GNX Jammer · May 2009

Powder coating on wood is pointless. Sure, it might look good at first, but you'll find it dings and scratches very easily since it's not a durable finish on a soft surface.

IMHO, there's a reason cabs/heads are covered in tolex. It's far more durable than most other coverings you can use.

There's a fabric based covering you could use (not sure what it's called, sort of like a thick felt) that would be more durable than powder coating and would probably help enhance the tone a little.

YMMV

tucopeat · May 2009

I think that felt like amp covering is call ozite, you see it a lot of it on car speaker boxes. I would think it might have some acoustical properties but don't quote me on that. I do know that it is very durable. another added benefit is that it is very velcro friendly, you can stick stuff to it with the hook side of the velcro. It's pretty easy to get as well. You can apply it a good quality spray adhesive. Mush easier and more forgiving than tolex.

on a different note, how far along are you in your design? If you don't already have the parts cut you may want to check out this link:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/XFCabs.html

a bunch of very interesting designs this fellow has... the cross-firing drivers would have a ton of dispersion over a standard flat front cab. I'm going to make one of these myself...I have a couple of 12's laying around here somewhere. Check out his PA cabs as well.

Just thought I would share my discovery with ya.

Peace

tucopeat · May 2009

If you wire the two speakers (assuming they are 8 ohm) parallel you would get 4 ohms , wire them in series and you get 8 ohms. If the speakers are 16 ohm they would not hurt the amp but you will notice a loss in output with the higher impedance. Higher impedance = more resistance to current flow. Unless of course they were both 16 ohm wired parallel would give you the 8 ohms ur looking for. when you go below the output imp is when you start to do damage to the amp(ex. 8ohm amp 4 ohm speaker).It is always best to match the imp of the driver or drivers with the output imp of the amp. That's what I was taught anyhow.

BettyBoo · May 2009

Here's another option - Diamond Plate

Shouldn't be too difficult to measure up and wack it on, especially a 2x12.
Depends how good your metal-working skills are too. Because its alloy it shouldn't be too heavy I wouldn't think. It'd be a tough little 2x12 cab thats for sure.

You could also stick some sort of maple capping over it too and go for the the natural wood look - something like a flame etc. Lots of options out there really.

Manitou · May 2009

For cheap, back in the day, we use to build our cabs and paint them flat black. Easy touch up, and well, all the same handles and corner protectors.

Today, I'd still go for a stained or painted finish. They still are easier to keep repaired and looking nice, even when banged up from hauling around. I'd probably use dovetail joints, and some simple inlay to customize the look. Easy to do, just a few more hours in initial construction. I mean, long as I'm going to the trouble to build my own cabs, why not?

http://www.frettech.com/rfc/cab/ <<< nice looking cab here

phatsack · May 2009

\tucopeat\ wrote:

when you go below the output imp is when you start to do damage to the amp(ex. 8ohm amp 4 ohm speaker).It is always best to match the imp of the driver or drivers with the output imp of the amp. That's what I was taught anyhow.

With tube amps I've found the opposite is better - go higher in ohms and you get \"flyback voltage\". But I think I'll just use 1 speaker until I get 2 16ohm or 4ohm speakers.

As far as the covering goes I think that diamond plate would look kick @SS!!! Seriously! :shock: but I don't think I want to go that far. honestly - though it sounds like the easy way out - Manitou has a point with the paint. I've also got plenty of experience with the flat black

\Tucopeat\ wrote:

a bunch of very interesting designs this fellow has...

The slanted cab is a GREAT idea, I'll eliminate standing waves this way. If I was going to use a regular grill cloth I'd try the cross-firing drivers, but I'm going to use the same grill style I have on my amp.

jamminmj · May 2009

I always use dark grey auto primer and thin it out quite abit. Although it can be abit toxic to breath and you need to be carefull that it's not to warm when you do it. It dries reasonably fast to touch and looks great and is easy to maintain.

powder coating......

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